No. 444.
Mr. Smyth to Mr. Evarts.

No. 69.]

Sir: I have the honor to send by this mail, as book-postage, a copy of the Bulletin de la Société de Géographic de Marseille, for November, 1879, containing an account of the discovery of the source of the Niger, and a translation of some extracts from the same, from the letter of appointment of the gentlemen, and from their letters containing facts connected with the discovery, which discovery was made the latter part of the year last past by two Frenchmen, Messrs. Zweifel and Moustier, who started from Sierra Leone under the patronage of M. Vermincke, merchant at Sierra Leone and at Marseilles, following as far as Falabah, in Soolima or Soolimana country, the route pursued by Winwood Reade in 1869, and earlier by Major Laing in 1823, and by Professor Blyden on his return from the interior, in 1872.

[Page 702]

It has been said that “since Park’s discovery of the Joliba (Niger) every point of the compass has been assumed for the ulterior course and direction of that river.” Its sources have now been definitely fixed in latitude 8° 45’ north, and longitude 12° 45’ west from Paris, and in latitude 8° 36’ north, and longitude 12° 53’ west from Paris.

The French are making the most vigorous efforts throughout Senegambia for the command of the trade of Soudan and even for political influence.

I learned a few days ago from a friend of the late French commandant of Mellicouria, a French station about forty miles northwest of Sierra Leone, that 500 troops are now stationed at Sego, the capital of the most powerful kingdom of Nigritia, and that a portion of these troops will soon be transferred to Barnillo, the head of navigation on the Niger, visited by Mungo Parkin 1797.

The military occupation of Sego now just effected by the French is no new idea in European enterprise in West Central Africa. Mungo Park, on his return to England, suggested to the British Government that a commercial military station should be established at Sego. But it would seem that since the days of Sir Charles Macarthy, the energetic governor who lost his life in the Ashantee war some fifty years ago, a singular apathy has marked the policy of the English Government in its dealings with interior Western Africa.

General Faidherbe, one of the ablest of the recent governors of Senegal, strove for a long time to carry out Mungo Park’s idea, and sent two French officers, who spent three years at Sego.

I regard the recent movement of the French, and it is regarded by experienced men in Western Africa, as one of the most important in the history of this particular portion of Negroland. They seem determined to work their way down along the interior” of the western coast and to establish an invincible prestige among the tribes.

The appointment of a French consul at Monrovia (of whose arrival I notified you in my No. 64, dated January 15, 1879, diplomatic series) is a part of their commercial plan.

The Liberians are trying to push their settlements to the interior, and to make treaties with the powerful tribes within three or four hundred miles of the coast, but in their feebleness it is very little that they can do. They deserve all the assistance and encouragement which it may be in the power of the government to render, in view of the intimate relations which a portion of the Negro race bears to the United States, and which has been borne by their immediate ancestors for upward of two hundred years.

The newly appointed secretary of the interior of Liberia, Hon. E. W. Blyden, is now on his way to the United States. I hope that he may have an opportunity of giving some information bearing on the subject of his country and of Africa in general to the Department.

* * * * * * *

I have, &c.,

JNO. H. SMYTH.
[Inclosure in No. 69.]

Translation of extracts from letter of instruction and direction, addressed Messrs. Zweifel and Moustier dated May 20, 1879.

The essential object of your voyage will be at once geographical and commercial. As to astronomical observations, I have selected M.—— captain of the ship ——, [Page 703] who will arrive at Sierra Leone by the first opportunity, and who, with his professional knowledge, will certainly be of great assistance to you in all that pertains to the scientific part of your journey.

The commercial object is to extend our business relations with the countries situated near the Niger, to study their productions, to ascertain the easiest routes for reaching our factories, and, in a word, to examine with care all the questions which relate to the development of our commercial activity in those countries.

The geographical object will be the discovery of the sources of the Niger. I attach to this the greatest importance; and it is principally in view of this discovery that I have formed the project of the expedition which you are called to direct.

Other travelers have explored the Niger, and have followed and determined its course, but the source itself is yet unknown.

But little attention is given to this subject at present. “Caput Nili quӕrere” (the search for the source of the Nile) has for a long time been the watchword of explorers.

This problem is now on the eve of being solved, but the sources of the Niger remain untouched.

It is probable that very soon public attention will be directed to this quarter. Numerous indications justify this expectation.

Let us take the lead; to us will redound the honor of this discovery.

* * * * * * *

If your expedition succeeds and leads to useful results, I desire that France shall be the first to profit by it. This being said, I think that the less you make of politics in your voyage the better.

I said to you at the outset of this letter that the expedition must have a character chiefly geographical and commercial. I shall complete my idea by adding that it must have a character essentially French. I mean to say by this that you must have in j view in your researches and various studies the interest of French commerce, and study the ways and means the most favorable for its extension and prosperity in those countries.

[In pursuance of the foregoing instructions, the expedition started from Port Lokkoh, July 11, 1879, and reached the Big Boumba, the capital of Limba, during said month, on the 25th.]

(Extracts from the letters of the exploring party, p. 267.)

We arrived here on the 25th instant, in good health, but somewhat fatigued. We intend to start again to-day, the 27th.

* * * * * * *

The route which we have followed is a little to the south of Reader’s. In the narrative of his journey, Reade says that he found forests of large trees from Port Lokkoh to Big Boumba. It is only ten years since this voyage took place and already everything is changed. The country through which we have passed is thus far little wooded. Large trees are now found only at rare intervals.

It is probable that the forests which Reade saw have been destroyed to give place to plantations of rice and grain.

There are numerous palm trees in Lokkoh and Limba, and a law exists in those countries which condemns to slavery any one who destroys one of these trees.

* * * * * * *

(Ibid., page 268.)

Falabah, August 20, 1879.

We arrived here on the 10th instant. It was our intention to change the route from Salaga and proceed directly to Mount Lomah, but everywhere along the road we were advised not to take that route, as war and famine prevailed in Koranko. We were obliged therefore to go on to Falabah, as Major Laing and Reade did. You are aware that the latter in his second journey proceeded from this town to the Niger at Farabanah and not towards Mount Lomah.

* * * * * * *

On the 18th instant an embassy from the King of Mount Lomah made us a visit. We asked indifferently for information in relation to their country and their mountains. We then spoke of the great river Diolibah (Niger). They told us that the great river passes between Mount Lomah and another mountain, and that the source is found two days’ walk beyond this mountain.

The source consists, according to their account, of three branches, each of which bears a particular name, but these branches soon reunite and form a small lake, from which flows the river under the name of Diolibah.

This morning we made our present to the King (Sewa of Falabah) and told him of our desire to see the great river. * * * He told us that the source of the Diolibah is [Page 704] found altogether in the territories of the Korankas, six or seven days’ journey from here (Falabah), and that, the source being discovered, we should be able to descend the river, but that instead of traversing it, to go to the east or the north, we should do better to return to him, for in Koranka as in Sangara there was famine.

Socorah, September 12, 1879.

We are near the frontier of Koranko and Kissi, and we have already crossed three branches of the Mger, viz, the Tentabara, the Tamicond, and the Falico. We were nearly drowned in the Falico.

It is probable that in three days we shall see the source of this branch. * * *

We have seen the source of the Sili, which is no other than our river Rokelle (or the Sierra Leone).

We are not able to describe the trouble we have had and that we have continually. At each town or village obstacles of all kind were put before us. Happily we are better acquainted with the customs of the natives than Reade or Blyden, or we should have long since lost all hope. We are always being much fatigued.

Koulanko, October 3, 1879.

We have accomplished the object of our journey. The source of the Niger has been discovered. We have succeeded, but with what troubles God only knows.

We have discovered moreover the source of the river Kamaranka, and we have visited the source of the Rokelle, discovered by Major Laing.

We are wet nearly every day to the bone; then we are exposed to a sun of 50° to 60°, but the bodily fatigue is nothing compared to the moral fatigue which these savages have caused us to endure.

We are now between Koranko, Kissi, and Cond.

[The explorers returned to Sierra Leone November 10, 1879, and concluded the subject of their explorations under the date of November 15, 1879.]

November 15, 1879.

From what precedes you have seen that the Niger is formed by the three branches, Tamicond, Falico, and Tembi.

The longitude of the source of the Falico is 12° 45’ west from Paris, and the latitude is 8° 45’ north; the longitude of the source of the Tembi is 12° 53’ west from Paris, and the latitude 8° 30’ north.

On the western side of the falls which give rise to the Niger is found the source of the river Kamoranka, which empties into the ocean opposite the Plantain Islands, north of the Shirbra. The Falico and Bafi flow from Mount Tantafria; from Mount Timbi-Coundon flow to the Tinibi and the Babbe; the Bafi (black water) from the river Kamaranka.

We reserve a complete narrative of our journey, to be given a few weeks later.

We remain yours, truly devoted,

  • ZWEIFEL,
  • M. MOUSTIER.