Lieutenant-Colonel Long was mentioned in my dispatch No. 178, of March 9,
1874, as the American officer who accompanied Colonel Gordon as chief of
staff in his expedition to the Soudan and Central Africa, which left
Cairo in the early part of this year.
The results of Long’s journey are looked upon as important by the
Egyptian government, and he has been advanced to the grade of colonel
and decorated with the order of Megidi.
I forward the colonel’s narrative to the Department, in the belief that
it will prove interesting to all who take an interest in the solution of
the many geographical problems of Central Africa. I also inclose
herewith a map of the Soudan and the lake region of Central Africa, upon
which I have traced the route taken by Colonel Long. I have also
endeavored to trace as near as possible the route taken by Dr.
Schweinfurth, the German traveler, in his journey to the west of the
White Nile, in 1868–1871, as narrated in his interesting work entitled
“The Heart of Central Africa.” This map has been kindly furnished me by
the Egyptian war office, through the courtesy of the chief of staff,
General Charles P. Stone.
Colonel Long’s route, going south, was from Gondokora to Fatiko, Foweira,
M’rool, nearly due south; and from M’rool, SSE. to the residence of
M’Tesa, the King of Ugauda. Thence he visited Lake Victoria and sailed
upon its waters. From Lake Victoria he returned to M’Tesa’s residence,
and from thence to Mandagani, where, embarking on the river in canoes,
he proceeded northward through the newly discovered lake to “M’roole,”
where he was attacked by the natives in boats and had a prolonged and
desperate fight, finally driving the enemy off and escaping down the
river to Foweira, and thence returned to Gondokora by way of Fatiko.
The chief geographical features of this expedition are, first, the
statement of Colonel Long that the Victoria Nyanza is not more than
twelve or fifteen miles wide, Speke having magnified it to an inordinate
extent; second, the discovery of a new lake between the Victoria Nyanza
and the Albert Nyanza; third, the practical demonstration of the
navigable condition of the Victoria Nile between Mandagani and Foweira;
and, fourth, the opening of the road between Ugauda and Gondokora, and
the establishment of amicable relations between the redoubtable M’Tesa
and the Egyptian government.
[Inclosure 1 in No.
258.]
Colonel Long to
Mr. Beardsley.
Khartoum, November 7,
1874.
My dear Mr. Consul-General: I returned from
the equator at Gondokora the 18th ultimo. Two days afterward I was
en route for Khartoum, per steamer
“Bordeue,” to communicate the result of an expedition undertaken
24th April last. I arrived here the 6th instant to find your very
kind letter and package of papers, delivered to me by two English
officers that join the expedition. I regret the non-reception of any
other letters or papers which you have kindly sent me; I suspect
they may lie among the sealed effects of Major Campbell, who died
here of typhus.
The information I give you, Mr. Consul, is in no wise secret, and you
may use it as you see fit. It interests Egypt and the world, since
Egypt to-clay follows America in the emancipation of slaves and the
disenthrallment of that benighted Africa which bequeathed to us in
America the saddest of legacies. I gladly resume a busied pen to
relate to you, dans, un bref summaire, that
of which the telegram has already informed
[Page 1328]
you. Bref: I left
Gondokora April 24; with me I had 80 soldiers, regular, and 60
irregular, and 300 porters, a force returning to several stations on
my route. My expeditionary force proper consisted of two soldiers,
black Saiid and Abdel Rhamah, who proved themselves my faithful and
courageous aids, and a worthless servant and a dead-beat, Alsacien,
Selim, a Speke soldier, speaking Ugunda, voila
tout.
Arrived at Foweira, a fort of 150 soldiers, near Karuma Falls, I
commenced my uncertain plunge into jungle d Africa; hardships of the
route, fearful rains, miseries, incessant fevers, are long and
unpleasant details. I arrived in Ugunda the 20th of June. My
reception was marked by all the pomp and display of barbarian
splendor and enthusiasm possible to imagine. I was long heralded on
the route to this great African chief M’Tse, (M’tesa.) Myself and
horse were objects of great astonishment to this curious populace,
who, neatly attired in a toga of yellow bark cloth, followed me, to
the number of 2,000, along the broad and well-swept road. Neat tents
of straw scattered here and there; the country mountainous and
picturesque, marred by the inevitable marsh that lies in the
intervals of the hills. M’Tse, with his numerous attendants, viewing
me from the distance, orders me houses, and wishes to see me on the
morrow.
At 8 o’clock I am presented through seven gates that swing from high
gross walls. I pass the stinking carion (?) till at the portals of a
bee-hive hut stands M’Tsa. The distinction and honor he does me is
recognized by the prostrate M’Ugunda, dressed in rich Arab robes. He
graciously salutes me, and with a lion-like tread retreats backward
to his seat, (chair covered with cloth and bordered with gold-work.)
I am offered a stool, the refusal of which to Speke is the burden of
his wrath at an indignity offered to Her Britannic Majesty’s
subject. The salutations passed, I addressed him as the great king
of Africa, to whom. I have come on the part of the great Sultan at
Cairo to bear him friendly salutations, &c. M’Tse is delighted;
the courtiers that sit upon their knees acclaim “sbeech.” Thirty men
are seized without delay by the executioners, who, with cords around
their heads, stand ready to do their imperious and capricious
master’s will. Quickly bound, they are decapitated at ten paces from
without. This was force, that great power that is ever dominant with
the African.
Subsequent visits were attended always by the execution of eight to
ten. Permission to visit Lake Victoria was accorded me, but it cost
the lives of several self-constituted spirits of the lake that
oppose and even murder his subjects. Permission to return by the
river was attended by a like sacrifice.
Dr. Livings tone/in his letter from Lake Bangeowlo, of South Central
Africa, to Stanley, says: “I wish some one would visit M’Tse or
Ugunda without Bombay as interpreter. He, Bombay, is by no means a
sound authority. The King of Dahomey suffered eclipse after a
common-sense visit, and we seldom hear any more of his atrocities.
The mightiest African potentates and the most dreadful cruelties
told of Africans owe a vast deal to the teller.” Dr. Livingstone,
you will see, is not authority on this subject, and the affair at
Cowassie narrated by Stanley is the proof. But this is digression.
For your information, here are a few data concerning the hitherto
unknown country of Ugunda. Country, mountainous, picturesque; soil,
fertile, impregnated here and there with iron, cristal de roche, and
argile; climate, insalubrious and debilitating for Europeans;
spring, summer, and autumn, diurnal and eternal; the morning in
spring, 10 to 4, intense heat; evening and night, rain and chilly;
month of July, rain less frequent; woolen clothes a necessity. Here
you have the climate of Central Africa, about which so much is said
and yet so little known.
Coffee growing wild; sweet potatoes, Indian corn, sugar-cane, are its
vegetable products. Fruits and pomegranates are being planted; the
whole country is a forest of bananas, the principal food of the
M’Ugunda; merrissa is distilled and as an intoxicating drink largely
indulged in.
Animals.—Zebra, great numbers of elephants,
lions, leopards, and in fact almost every kind common to Africa.
Industry.—Fabric of bark of tree, a cloth worn
by all, a sort of toga.
Money.—Shells and copper-wire.
Population—I esteem at half a million.
Administration.—M’Tse, absolute.
Religion.—Moslem since four years, inculcated
by traders from Zanzibar. Speke had the opportunity to have directed
these people in the way of Christianity. To-day the government sends
priests of Moslem faith, which, by the by, is a faith much better
suited to them than the less demonstrative Christian faith. An
unhealthy and deadly climate is this; in my opinion, withdrawn
fortunately from the field of labor of the Christian missionary; a
climate that can never be habitable for the white.
Origin—Unknown. A white negro was brought to
me by M’Tse, who sought to surprise me on every occasion. I confess
his success. The boy had all the facial characteristics of the
negro, but white as to hiskin and wool, though there are numbers of
the like. M’Tse, a man who, though ignorant, has proper
intelligence, struggles for light to a certain point, (for you know,
Mr. Consul, lam one of those who believe in that limited point to
which the negro only can go.)
* * * * * * *
[Page 1329]
Permission was granted me to visit the Lake Victoria. I was met
hereby 1,000 men in bark canoes, like Indian canoes. I scanned
closely its waters; sweet, light, no tides, no shells. The scenery
here is indeed beautiful; the width of the lake cannot be more than
12 to 15 miles. Returning to M’Tse, I left to return, permission
after much labor being accorded, accompanied by the execution of
seven supposed spirits, guardians of the lake, who M’Tse told me
would oppose my passage; the same idea that the river was impassable
on account of rocks and rapids, savage and hostile tribes.
M’Tse, whom I had convinced of the importance of its navigation,
succumbed only when his objections were met by the promise of a
greater future to him, in the easy exportation of ivory. I had
already his promise, and his action also to that end, in closing the
road to Zanzibar, thus securing for the government at Gondokora,
Colonel Gordon, a monopoly of ivory. That will make Egypt a great
ivory market. M’Tse, who showed me great affection, urged me to
desist, and said Speke tried it and failed. “You have only three
soldiers; the government of the great Sultan will be angry if you
are killed here.” My importunities prevailed. I left M’Tse the 19th
of July; his chiefs were my enemies, and caused me, in delays,
&c., all kinds of misery, (see Speke.) What ought to have been
three or four days’ march only to Mondogani took twenty days; they
robbed me of my baggage and food, and for four days, without food,
save milk and bananas, I was deserted in a dense forest. M’Tse was
furious when he heard of it and my losses. “How can I re-imburse
you; will you receiveivory?”
I replied, no, only send me one honest man; I must push on. Suffering
from a fearfully disordered stomach, which I had had for more than a
month, and continued till I arrived at Iatiko, (four months,) had
worn me to a skeleton. My two black soldiers even suffered, and my
black servant and the Alsacien were swollen fearfully. Finally, I
arrived at Mondogani, and, following the river, found there at
length the much-coveted boats. In these I placed my baggage, and
with one mutton, five pounds flour, and five pounds beans, I
commenced the navigation of the unknown river. My soldier Selim I
had instructed to follow me by the river, and at M’rooli await me.
The chiefs and he went into camp, and the cattle sent me by M’Tse
were consumed by them. After five days of rowing, weak and
exhausted, aided only by Saïd and Abdel, I entered a lake having on
my right a high mountain called Mount Tingé. The river loses itself
in an immense lake or basin; the land itself is lost to view. The
fact impresses itself upon me that I have discovered a great lake
that is certainly twenty miles or more in width; great fields of a
peculiar weed come up from thirty or forty feet depth, and lays its
hat-shaped head upon the surface.
While this basin receives the waters of the plateaux, the water-shed
of the Nile, in conjunction with the Lake Victoria—this is the great
source, of the Nile. I have an idea, too, that this gerasch weed holds in abeyance this great
volume of water; that when dried up and having no vitality,
periodical winds and heavy rains drive the waters no longer
restrained into the Nile. This is the annual inundation of the Nile.
Heavy storms set in, really fearful, and for two days, without
compass, I wandered about this lake lost. Eight mouths were to be
fed, and with only flour, no fire. Since I could not reach the shore
that was nowhere to be seen, exhausted and nearly despairing. The
storm ceased, and, aided by the scarcely visible polar star, I found
at length the river. Arrived after seven days at M’roole, where I
expected provisions. I was attacked by one hundred men of Keba
Regas. My defense was desperate. I had fortunately plenty of
cartridges. Said and Abdel were armed with Snyders; I had a splendid
gun, Reilly, No. 8, Elephant, the first shot from which struck their
chief, who, not heeding my expostulations, endeavored to flank me,
full in the breast. He fell, and the effect of the shot was
demoralizing, and yet the attack was renewed. From the two Snyders
and my gun the fire was constant; boats were sunk, and after
spending four hundred and fifty cartridges the flight became
general, deserting their boats, and following me from midday till
night. Two chiefs and eighty men were killed outright, while the
only injury I received was an accidental shot in the nose that
smashed the bridge and inflicted a painful wound.
That night I continued my route, and with scanty provisions arrived
at Foweira, five days after, without provisions and in a pitiful
condition. I had, however, obtained great results. Without
recounting severe sufferings, despairing of ever returning, I
arrived the 18th October at Gondokora. Colonel Gordon received me in
a most affectionate manner. He said, “Long, you have done a great
work; you merit well of your country. Go to Khartoum, it will do you
good, and you must communicate to government and the world your
work.”
From Khartoum I write you this. Ansar, Dewitt, Sinant, and Campbell
have succumbed to climate. Colonel Gordon, alone with the dying at
Gondokora, I found well; he is the right man, and will quickly
organize a government and administration that will fulfill the
wishes of the viceroy.
And now, Mr. Consul, to an undue length I have detailed to you the
outlines of an expedition whose duration was six months, and
accomplishment of that which interests
[Page 1330]
Egypt and the world. If I have merited well
of my country—little. If in what I have written you see that which
you would like to transmit to geographical society or otherwise,
Colonel Gordon assured me would be perfectly agreeable to the
government, and in fact desiring me to do so.
I am suffering slightly from swelled stomach, in fact my whole frame;
an Arab doctor tells me the effect of fever, &c., and that it
will pass away, &c.
Note.—The original of the above was so
hastily written, and on so thin paper, with bad ink, that much
difficulty was experienced in reading it intelligibly.
